Panna Tiger Reserve in Madhya Pradesh lost every one of its tigers by 2009. Tigers were brought back from other reserves, and today Panna is one of the great conservation comebacks in India, with open dry forest, the Ken River gorge and far fewer jeeps than the famous parks. On our April visit we saw tigers on the very first morning. This guide covers gates, timings, best time to visit, how to reach, and what we saw.
Panna at a Glance
- Location: Panna and Chhatarpur districts, Madhya Pradesh
- Area: about 543 sq km of core forest
- Main gates: Madla (about 25 km from Khajuraho) and Hinauta
- Open: 1 October to 30 June (core zones)
- Nearest airport: Khajuraho, about 25 km from Madla
- Best for tigers: March to June
The Reserve That Came Back from Zero
Panna was declared a tiger reserve in 1994. After years of poaching, it had no tigers left by 2009. The forest department then moved tigresses from Bandhavgarh and Kanha and a male from Pench into the reserve, and the population grew steadily from those few animals. Every tiger you see in Panna today comes from that rescue, which makes each sighting feel special.
The landscape is different from Tadoba or Bandhavgarh: dry teak forest on a sandstone plateau, cut by rocky gorges and by the Ken River. In the dry season the trees drop their leaves and you can see a long way through the forest.
What We Saw on Our Panna Safari
Within the first hour of our first morning drive from Madla gate, the jeep stopped beside a small forest pool and a full-grown tiger was lying at its edge, leaning down to drink. It took its time, then stretched out on the bank, completely calm.
Soon after, among the trees close to the track, we found two tigers together, one lying down and one walking around it. For a forest that had none at all in 2009, seeing two adults side by side felt like a small miracle.
See the Panna tiger safari photos and photography notes for three original frames from that morning, including the two tigers and the forest around them.
The Ken River
The Ken River flows north through the reserve, through pale sandstone gorges and wide sandy stretches. In the hot months it is the main water source, so deer and their predators stay close to it. The Ken also has gharial and mugger crocodiles, and a boat ride on the river is a lovely change from the jeep. The highway from Khajuraho crosses the Ken on a bridge with a good view of the gorge.
Beyond the Tiger
Panna’s open forest makes other animals easy to see. Chital (spotted deer) are everywhere, with stags carrying full antlers in the dry months, and sambar stand alert between the trees. Peacocks call from the bare branches at dawn.
Panna is also one of the best places in central India for vultures. On our second morning several were resting on a rock ledge in the gorge, the cliff below them streaked white. We also watched a falcon on an old branch.
Gates and Safari Timings
Madla gate is the main entry, close to Khajuraho and most resorts, and gives access to the Ken River core area. Hinauta gate on the other side has rockier, hillier forest. For a first, tiger-focused visit, choose Madla.
| Season | Morning safari | Evening safari |
|---|---|---|
| Summer (Mar – Jun) | about 5:30 – 9:00 am | about 4:00 – 7:00 pm |
| Winter (Oct – Feb) | about 6:00 – 9:30 am | about 2:30 – 5:30 pm |
Timings change through the year, so confirm with your resort. Reach the gate 30 to 45 minutes early; being early in the queue helps you reach the best areas first. Book on the official MP Forest Department portal, forest.mponline.gov.in.
Best Time to Visit Panna
- October to February: cool and green, good for birds; tigers are seen but need patience.
- March to April: the sweet spot for most people: bare forest, long views and good tiger activity.
- May to June: very hot afternoons, but tigers stay close to water.
- July to September: core zones closed for the monsoon.
How to Reach Panna
- By air: Khajuraho airport is about 25 km from Madla gate (about 45 minutes).
- By train: Satna (about 90 km) or Katni (about 115 km).
- By road: about 25 km from Khajuraho, about 240 km from Jabalpur.
Panna and Khajuraho Together
The Khajuraho temples are only about 25 km from Madla gate, so it is easy to combine both: a morning safari and an afternoon at the temples, or a temple day before or after your safaris. A comfortable plan is three days with three or four safaris and a Ken River boat ride.
Tips for a Better Panna Safari
- Plan at least three safaris over two nights.
- Tell your guide what you most want to see: tigers, vultures, river birds.
- Carry water and a hat in summer and warm layers in winter mornings.
- Wear dull colours and keep your voice low.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are tiger sightings likely at Panna?
Yes. Panna has fewer tigers than Tadoba or Bandhavgarh, but the open forest and fewer vehicles mean sightings are good, especially from March to June.
Which gate is best for Panna?
Madla gate, close to Khajuraho, is the best choice for a first visit.
How far is Panna from Khajuraho?
About 25 km to Madla gate, around 45 minutes by road.
When is Panna closed?
The core zones close from 1 July to 30 September for the monsoon.
Read next: Bandhavgarh Safari Guide · Tadoba Safari Guide · Tadoba vs Bandhavgarh vs Panna