The Setting — Vanoshi and Surrounds

Before the first bird sighting, Sindhudurg sets the mood. Temple spires wrapped in plastic against the monsoon rain, hand-painted homestay signs hidden in the forest, laterite pathways through thick vegetation, and wooden bridges over lily ponds. This is birding in the Konkan.

We stayed at the Vanoshi Forest Homestay, which sits right at the edge of prime birding habitat. Morning and evening walks along forest trails and stream crossings produced most of our sightings.

Kingfisher Nesting Holes

The Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher digs a horizontal tunnel into an earth bank or laterite cliff near a forest stream. The tunnel runs about a metre deep and ends in a small nesting chamber. These holes are the key to finding the birds — locate a fresh hole near water, wait quietly, and the kingfisher will eventually return.

We found nesting holes in two types of substrate: a soft mud bank along a stream, and a harder laterite rock face. Both had active nests.

Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher

This is the bird most people come to Sindhudurg for. The Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher is a monsoon breeding visitor to the Western Ghats. It arrives in June, digs a nesting tunnel in a mud bank near a stream, and stays until September. At about 13 cm, it is one of the smallest kingfishers in the world.

We found several individuals along forest streams near their nesting holes. They sit still on low perches, waiting for insects, lizards and small frogs. The rufous-orange body with a lilac-blue cap is unmistakable, though they blend into the dark forest floor surprisingly well.

Blue-eared Kingfisher

Closely related to the Common Kingfisher but distinguished by its blue ear-coverts and deeper ultramarine upperparts. The Blue-eared Kingfisher prefers shaded forest streams over open water. In Sindhudurg, they were active along every stream we visited.

We watched one bird dive repeatedly for small fish, returning to the same perch each time. Their call — a sharp, high-pitched tsiit — often gave them away before we could see them.

Stork-billed Kingfisher

The largest kingfisher we spotted on this trip. The Stork-billed Kingfisher has a massive red bill, brown cap, and blue-green wings. It hunts fish, frogs and crabs along rivers and streams. Less common than the White-throated Kingfisher, so always a good sighting. We found one perched on a wire near a stream.

Brown Wood Owl

One of the highlights of the trip. The Brown Wood Owl is a large, dark owl of dense forest. It roosts during the day in thick canopy, often near streams. Our guide from Wildagram located a roosting bird sitting quietly among branches, its barred plumage breaking up its outline against the leaves.

This is a resident species in the Western Ghats. Its deep, resonant hoo-hoo call is one of the characteristic sounds of the night forest here.

Chestnut-headed Bee-eater

A beautiful bee-eater of forest clearings and edges in the Western Ghats. The chestnut crown and nape, green body, and yellow throat make it easy to identify. We watched one catch a butterfly mid-air and return to its perch on a wire rope to eat it — the classic bee-eater feeding style.

Unlike the more widespread Green Bee-eater (Merops orientalis), this species prefers wooded habitats. It catches prey in flight and beats it against the perch to remove stingers before swallowing.

Indian Pitta

The Indian Pitta is a monsoon breeding visitor to the Western Ghats. Its loud wheeet-tew call echoes through the forest at dawn and dusk. Despite its bright plumage — green upperparts, buff underparts with a crimson vent, and a bold black eye-stripe — it can be difficult to spot on the dark forest floor where it feeds on insects and worms.

We heard several calling but managed to photograph one that briefly perched in the open.

Malabar Grey Hornbill

A Western Ghats endemic. The Malabar Grey Hornbill is smaller than the Malabar Pied Hornbill and tends to stay high in the canopy. We spotted one in silhouette against the sky, its casque clearly visible. It feeds mainly on fruit, especially figs, and moves through the canopy in small groups.

Golden-fronted Leafbird

A bright green canopy bird with a golden-orange forehead and blue throat patch. The Golden-fronted Leafbird feeds on nectar, insects and small fruit in well-wooded areas of the Western Ghats. We spotted one perched on a branch, its orange forehead clearly visible.

Black-rumped Flameback

Also called the Lesser Golden-backed Woodpecker. Golden-yellow back, black rump and red crest. Common throughout peninsular India but always good to see. We spotted one clinging to a tree trunk, tapping for insects under the bark.

Grey-fronted Green Pigeon

A Western Ghats endemic, recently split from the Yellow-footed Green Pigeon. The Grey-fronted Green Pigeon has a grey forehead, green body and maroon back. It is a canopy dweller that feeds on fruit, especially figs. It often sits motionless among leaves and can be hard to spot despite its size. We photographed one perched high in a fruiting tree.

Grey-bellied Cuckoo

A medium-sized grey cuckoo with a distinctive red eye-ring. The Grey-bellied Cuckoo is a brood parasite found in well-wooded areas. It has a plain grey plumage with barred tail. We spotted one perched quietly among leaves in the forest canopy.

Crimson-backed Sunbird

Another Western Ghats endemic, and the smallest sunbird in India at around 8 cm. The male is a jewel: deep crimson back and breast band, a metallic blue-green crown that flashes in the light, and a dark face. It is restless and rarely sits still, moving constantly through flowering shrubs and the middle canopy.

We found this male working a cluster of flower buds at the forest edge, hanging upside down to reach the nectar. Its small size makes it easy to miss — you often notice the movement before the bird.

Black-hooded Oriole

Impossible to mistake once you see it: a bright golden-yellow body with a solid jet-black hood covering the entire head and throat, black wings and a coral-pink bill. The Black-hooded Oriole is a canopy bird of open woodland and wooded villages, often heard before it is seen — a fluid, liquid whistle carrying across the trees.

We photographed this one high in a flowering tree in the early morning, feeding among the buds. The yellow is startling against grey monsoon sky.

Red-whiskered Bulbul

A handsome bulbul with a tall pointed black crest, red ear-patch (the “whiskers”), and a white cheek. Common across peninsular India, it is found in gardens, forest edges and scrub. We photographed one perched on a rain-wet branch, its crest standing upright.

Red-wattled Lapwing

One of the most common ground birds in India, the Red-wattled Lapwing is found in open fields, riverbanks and wetlands. Its loud “did-he-do-it” alarm call is a familiar sound across the countryside. We spotted one standing in a green paddy field near the village.

Prinias

Two prinia species were seen around the forest edges and scrubby areas near the homestay.

The Ashy Prinia (Prinia socialis) is a common resident with a grey head and rufous wings. The Grey-breasted Prinia (Prinia hodgsonii) is plainer, with a grey breast and whitish belly. Both are skulkers that respond well to pishing.

Wire-tailed Swallow

A handsome swallow with a deep blue back, chestnut crown, and long thin outer tail feathers that give it its name. Usually found near water and bridges. We saw them resting on lamps and wires, and flying low over the river catching insects.

Atlas Moth

Not a bird, but too good to leave out. The Atlas Moth is one of the largest moths in the world, with a wingspan that can exceed 25 cm. Its wing tips resemble snake heads — thought to deter predators. We found one resting on a wall at the homestay. A sign of how rich the insect life is during the monsoon.

Watch the Trip Video

A short video from our monsoon birding trip to Sindhudurg — kingfishers, owls, bee-eaters and the Western Ghats in full monsoon glory.