The striped hyena is India’s only hyena. It is a shy animal of dry, open country, and most people live their whole lives near one without ever seeing it. We were lucky. On a September evening near Bhigwan in Maharashtra, two striped hyenas came out of their den and rested in the sand in front of us.
What a striped hyena looks like
A striped hyena is about the size of a large dog. Its coat is pale grey or sandy, with dark stripes on the body and legs. It has big pointed ears, a strong neck and a long mane of hair along its back. When a hyena feels alarmed, it raises this mane, and suddenly it looks much bigger.
The front legs are longer than the back legs, so the back slopes down towards the tail. This gives the hyena its famous walk.
Where striped hyenas live
In India, striped hyenas live in dry scrub, rocky hills, ravines, grasslands and farmland. They are found across much of the country, including Maharashtra, Rajasthan, Gujarat, Karnataka and Madhya Pradesh. Around Bhigwan, the low rocky hills and grasslands suit them well.
What striped hyenas eat
The striped hyena is mainly a scavenger. It eats what larger hunters leave behind, and its jaws are strong enough to crush bone. It also eats insects, small animals, eggs and even fruit. This simple diet helps it live close to people without being seen.
Life at the den
Striped hyenas rest during the day and come out at dusk. They use dens in caves, rock cracks or burrows dug into earth banks. A family uses the den to raise its cubs, and a litter usually has two to four cubs.
At the den we watched, the area was quiet at 5.27 pm. By 5.55 pm two adults were lying in the sand outside. Later, as the light faded, a cub stepped out too. You can watch that evening in our short film.
How to see a striped hyena responsibly
- Go with a local guide who knows the area.
- Visit in the evening, from about five o’clock until dusk.
- Watch from a good distance and keep your voice low.
- Keep den locations private, so the family stays safe and calm.
You can read about the whole evening, and the rest of our four outings, in our Bhigwan trip story.
Striped hyena or dog? How to tell
At dusk, a hyena can look like a large dog at first. Look for three things: the sloping back, with the shoulders higher than the hips; the bold dark stripes on the legs; and the long mane along the spine. A hyena also walks with a slow, rolling gait and carries its head low.
A useful animal for the land
Hyenas are nature’s clean-up crew. By eating what other animals leave behind, they keep the land clean and help return nutrients to the soil. Farmers in many villages have lived alongside them for generations.
Our evening at the den, minute by minute
- 5.19 pm: we reached the hillside above the den, in warm evening light.
- 5.27 pm: the den mouth was quiet, with the family resting inside.
- 5.42 pm: we started filming the den entrance.
- 5.55 pm: two adult hyenas were resting in the sand outside.
- Dusk: a cub stepped out and the family gathered outside the den.
Photography tips
- Use a lens of 250 mm or longer and stay well back.
- Raise your ISO as the light fades; a little grain is fine.
- Shoot short video clips too, because behaviour at a den tells a story.
- Switch off the flash and keep phone screens dim.
Best time of year
Hyenas live here all year. The cooler months from October to February are pleasant for evening waits, and the green weeks after the monsoon, like our September trip, bring lovely soft light.
How to reach Bhigwan and Kadbanwadi
Bhigwan is on the Pune–Solapur highway (NH65), about 105 km from Pune. The nearest airport is Pune, and Bhigwan has its own railway station (BGVN), with Daund Junction about 26 km away for more trains. State Transport buses from Pune to Solapur stop at Bhigwan. Kadbanwadi is a short drive away, and most homestays in Kumbhargaon arrange transport and local guides.
Frequently asked questions
Is the striped hyena found in India?
Yes. The striped hyena is the only hyena found in India. It lives in dry, open parts of the country, including Maharashtra.
Are striped hyenas active in the day?
They are mostly active at night. They rest in dens during the day and come out around dusk.
What does a striped hyena eat?
Mostly leftovers from other animals, which it cleans up with its very strong jaws. It also eats insects, small animals, eggs and fruit.
Where can I see a striped hyena near Pune?
The dry, rocky country around Bhigwan, about 105 km from Pune, is home to striped hyenas. A local guide gives you the best chance.